Growing up in Hawaii the beach and ocean were obviously a huge part of my life. Sadly, I did not pick up surfing until my late teens (actually the latest teen). I absolutely loved surfing (I still do even though I'm 3000 miles away from home). One of my favorite surfers is Laird Hamilton. He's fearless, innovative and his surfing is unbelievably instinctive.
He posted this on video the other day. Watching this type of stuff makes me want to get back in shape and on a board so bad! Check it out!
If I ever get back to Hawaii one of the first things that I'm going to do is buy a stand-up board and paddle. I hear that it's a great workout and I admire the physicality and core strength it takes. Here's a bit more stand-up by Laird.
From a fitness standpoint, Laird has been an inspiration to me for a while. Take about 15 minutes to watch some of his surf videos and you'll quickly see how in shape Laird is and how well he's taken care of himself. He put out an autobiography a few years ago called, "Force of Nature". In it he talks about surfing, family, his childhood (which is actually a great story) and health. I actually keep my copy of his book at my desk at work. It's a great read. What I love, is how much health and fitness is not just a part of his life, but a lifestyle instead. He has a healthy balanced diet (which is not the easiest in Hawaii I might add), engages in strength training, yoga, obviously surfing, and general fitness to keep himself healthy.
Seeing these videos makes me want to get back into surfing shape. I've got a trip home to Maui scheduled for Christmas... we'll see what I can do to get in shape by then.
If you aren't convinced about how rad Laird is... this will do it. This is taken from a great surf documentary called "Riding Giants". Pardon the mild language.
If you aren't convinced about how rad Laird is... this will do it. This is taken from a great surf documentary called "Riding Giants". Pardon the mild language.
Happy surfing.
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